Auto parts, sourced for your exact vehicle
We source parts for the cars on these roads, including models the dealer network no longer stocks for. Genuine, OEM, aftermarket and good used, with the trade-off explained rather than hidden. Tell us the vehicle and the part, and we will tell you what exists, what each option costs and how long it takes.
Genuine, OEM, aftermarket and used
Four grades, four different prices, four different risks. Here is what each one actually means.
Genuine
Manufacturer boxed
The part as the carmaker sells it, in their packaging, with their warranty. The most expensive route and the one with the least to argue about afterwards.
When it makes sense: Newer cars, anything still under manufacturer warranty, safety-critical components, and any part where a failure takes something expensive with it.
OEM
Same factory, different box
Made by the supplier that produces the part for the manufacturer, sold under the supplier name. Frequently identical to genuine apart from the logo on the box, and cheaper because you are not paying for that logo.
When it makes sense: Almost anywhere genuine would do. The usual limit is availability rather than quality, and we will tell you when the OEM route simply does not exist for your part.
Aftermarket
Independent manufacturers
Made by companies with no supply relationship to the carmaker. The range is enormous: some aftermarket brands equal or beat the original, and some are not fit to put on a car. The brand name is the whole story here, so we tell you which one we are quoting.
When it makes sense: Mid-life and older cars, wear items, and cases where a good independent brand is the sensible value. Not the place to economise on brakes or steering.
Used
Pulled from another vehicle
A working part removed from a donor car. Condition varies and so does what is reasonable to buy this way. Body panels, glass, trim, switchgear, mirrors, lights and discontinued electronics are routine. Internal engine wear parts generally are not.
When it makes sense: Discontinued models, body repair, expensive electronics, and any car where a new part would cost more than the vehicle is worth to you.
When the cheaper option is the right one
Spending the most is not the same as deciding well.
A good many workshops answer every parts question with the most expensive option, because it is the safest answer to give and the most profitable one to sell. It is also frequently wrong. The right grade depends on the car, on what you intend to do with it, and on what the part actually does.
Put a genuine part on a twenty-year-old hatchback and there is a real chance the part outlives the car. That money did not buy you reliability. It bought you a component that will be scrapped still working. On a vehicle you plan to sell within the year, the calculation changes again.
The test we apply is what happens when the part fails. A suspension bush that wears out early costs you an afternoon and a small bill, so a decent aftermarket bush is a reasonable bet. A timing belt that fails early can destroy an engine, so that is not the place to save money, and we will tell you so even when you ask for the cheap one.
Where a used part is the sensible answer, we say that too. A second-hand wing mirror, a working headlamp assembly from the same model, an interior panel that is no longer produced: these are ordinary, sensible repairs, and treating them as beneath discussion only costs the customer money.
What we need to find the right part
The more of this you can give us, the fewer wrong parts anybody orders.
- Make, model and year, and the engine size.
- Chassis or VIN number if you can find it, which removes all guesswork.
- What the part is, or what the symptom is if you are not sure.
- A photo of the old part, including any numbers stamped or printed on it.
- Whether you want it fitted or supplied only.
- Whether you need it today or can wait for a better option.
The chassis or VIN number is the single most useful thing you can send. Two cars of the same model and year can take different parts depending on when they were built and which market they were built for, and the number settles it immediately.
How a parts request runs
No payment at the enquiry stage, and no obligation to take the option we find.
You send the details
The vehicle, the part, and a photo if you have one. A symptom is enough if you are unsure what the part is called.
We identify it properly
Matched to your exact vehicle rather than to the model name, so the part that arrives is the part that fits.
You get the options
What is available in each grade, the price of each, the brand where it matters, and the realistic wait.
You choose, then we order
Fitted by us or supplied to you. Nothing is ordered before you have picked an option.
Fitted by us, or supplied to you
Both are fine. They carry different responsibilities and you should know which is which.
We source it and fit it
The straightforward route. The part carries whatever warranty its grade and brand offer, our workmanship is covered separately, and if the part turns out to be wrong that is our problem to solve rather than yours. If something fails, there is one place to bring it.
We supply, you fit
Also fine. You get the same grade and brand information, and the same warranty on the part itself. What changes is that the fitting is not ours, so a failure caused by installation is outside what we can cover. Say supply only when you send the request.
The third case is a part you bought elsewhere and want us to fit. We will do that and charge for the labour, and there is no parts warranty from us on something we did not source, because we cannot verify what it is or where it has been. We will tell you before we start if a part you have bought looks wrong for the vehicle.
Warranty, returns and what is covered
Written on the invoice rather than described vaguely at the counter.
Genuine and OEM parts carry the warranty their manufacturer offers, and the terms are stated on your invoice. Good aftermarket brands usually carry one too, and where they do we say so and state it the same way. Used parts do not carry a parts warranty, and you will be told that before you agree to one rather than after it fails.
A parts warranty covers the part failing on its own. It does not cover damage from an unrelated fault, from an accident, from continued driving after a warning, or from modification. Where a part we supplied fails within its warranty, we deal with the supplier on your behalf rather than handing you a phone number.
Electrical components are commonly non-returnable once fitted, which is standard across the trade and is the reason we spend time identifying them correctly before ordering. Specially ordered parts may also be non-returnable. Where that applies to your part, we say so at quote stage.
Our own workmanship is covered separately from the part. If a job we did was not done correctly, bring the car back and we put it right at our cost.
Counterfeit parts, and how we avoid them
A real problem in this market, and one worth being specific about.
Counterfeit parts are packaged to look genuine and priced to look like a bargain. Filters with almost no filtration medium inside. Brake pads that fade to nothing when hot. Bearings that fail in months. Electrical components that pass a bench test and then fail in service. The packaging is often excellent, which is exactly the problem.
The defence is boring and it works: buy through suppliers we already have a relationship with, treat a price far below the market as the warning it is, and check the part itself rather than the box. Weight, casting quality, finish and part numbers tell you more than the label does.
When you are buying parts yourself, the same rules apply. If one seller is dramatically cheaper than everyone else for what is supposedly the same genuine part, something is different about what is in the box.
What you can always ask for
- To see the part in its packaging before it is fitted.
- The brand name, written on the quote, not just a grade.
- The old part back once the new one is on.
- The price of the other grades you did not pick.
Discontinued and hard-to-find parts
The half of an older repair that actually takes the time.
Cars here outlive their supply chains. A model can be off the showroom floor for a decade and still be everywhere on the road, and at that point the dealer answer becomes no. That answer is rarely the end of it.
What remains are OEM suppliers still producing the component for other markets, aftermarket manufacturers who make it precisely because demand persists, used parts from the same model, and in some cases repair or refurbishment of the part you already have, which for certain electronic modules and mechanical assemblies is both cheaper and quicker than replacement.
Finding these takes time, and we will give you a realistic estimate of how much. What we will not do is take the job, go quiet, and leave you without a car and without an explanation. If a part cannot be found, you will be told that it cannot be found.
How we work
The same on a parts request as on a repair.
Diagnosis before quote
We find the fault first. A price given over the phone for a noise nobody has heard is a guess.
The price is agreed first
You approve the work and the cost before a spanner is picked up. Extra work means another call.
Parts you can check
We tell you whether a part is genuine, OEM, aftermarket or used, and what each one costs.
Old parts returned
Ask and we will hand back whatever we replaced. It is the simplest proof that the job was done.
Parts by area of the car
Not sure what the part is called? Start from the job it belongs to.
Where we deliver and fit
Islamabad and Rawalpindi, at your location or in a workshop.
Questions about parts
Tell us the vehicle and the part
We will come back with what is available in each grade, what each one costs, and how long it takes. Nothing is ordered until you pick one.